10/7 Cadiz (still)


“Now you’re just somebody that I used to know” (Gotye, 2011)

Cadiz is the oldest continuously inhabited community in Europe? That’s cool. Wow, when those Phoenicians do something, they do it right! For whatever reasons, though, there isn’t much here that is ancient (at least not much visible). Apparently with the wealth brought to this city by the New World, they decided their old digs needed some fancification (a new word, feel free to use it as I have not trademarked it yet). I would be curious what archeologists would find (or have found) digging. Every day, however, we get a little taste of Spain’s history in the foods.

The history of Spain is long.  This is a land known to the ancient Phoenicians for millennia. Cadiz itself was 1000 years old when Christ was born. A week or so ago we walked through Atapuerca, which holds cave paintings and archeological evidence of humans from 30,000 years ago!  Julius Caesar and Rome were familiar with this area and ruled “Hispania” for 500 years before being pushed out by the Vandals and Visigoths from the north of Europe. Then the Berbers/Moors held sway for 800ish years from 711 to 1492 (the same year someone named Columbus discovered a New World) under the sponsorship of King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella (who united the 4 kingdoms into modern “Spain”)… 

All these people made impacts on the land and the architecture and the “culture” in every way. Phoenicians brought sauces and pigs to Iberia. The Romans brought grains, wine and olives, the Moors brought citrus and irrigation. The New World brought chocolate and tomatoes and potatoes (which it seems hard to eat a meal in Spain without some potato!)… So, plenty here for an archeologist to spend a lifetime studying, but if we knew enough about culinary cultures we would be able to put together a fascinating story as well.

I have been thinking a lot about “culture” as we have been on this adventure. We throw that word around a lot but it’s really hard for me to define and as a useful construct I suspect both completely too narrow and too broad. It is both found and lost in the context of a place. What is “the culture” of the United States? It may be like trying to paint fine details with a 3″ brush?

One of the differences between my experience of the US and Spain is the understanding of space and privacy. I am sure it happens in the States too but I am still shocked how many people are playing videos or having conversation on speaker phone in trains, lobbies or other public spaces. It isn’t just the thought of what could/should be private being public but it seems so intrusive on the space of others. Similarly I have had multiple episodes of waiting in line and people just cutting right in like I didn’t exist. Maybe that is just a rude person like every place has but it feels more like a disregard of space in general.

One of the interesting things about Europe in general to me is the disconnect between the exterior of a structure and the interior. I sort of like this part because I think it’s an analogy of how people might be as well. The outside of a building may look rather drab or beat up, but inside is very clean, neat and comfortable. Maybe this is related to the relative permanence of structures here vs the States but the saying about a book and its cover really holds here.

I have mentioned watching people in a grocery store or train station to try and figure out how to do things, but we also just enjoy sitting at an outdoor cafe and watching people. I am not sure but I think that may also be a Spanish cultural pastime as we see many others who seem to be doing likewise. Something strange happens frequently to me when walking or watching; I see the “doppelgänger” of so many people I know back home. I mentioned (confessed) this to Camille one day and she laughed and told me all the people she had seen on the way (which made me feel a little less weird).

Why does my brain want to find people I know? That may seem like a silly question. I think we look for people we know for the same reason we look for home: it’s “familiar” and perhaps allows us to feel like we are known? We take up a space and that space is known and recognized by others.

I have had a lot of patients over the years who expressed some regret or loss of recognition by family or others. I think of people I know in nursing homes or home alone or even the last Presbytery meeting I was at where we were asked to send a note to retired pastors to let them know we remember (see) them. It reminds me how important it is to “see” other people and let them know they are seen. I think I need to work a little harder at that.

I could (and apparently am) go on but in addition to the doppelgängers I also see every day a number of mostly young people with orange or blue hair or other “loud” features and I wonder if that isn’t a call to be seen, to have a space and be recognized? Part of my midwest culture wants to pay attention to the quiet ones and ignore the loud but maybe I need to rethink “my” culture and offer to people what they are asking for? I guess just more stuff for me to think about.

If you are reading this (and apparently you are), I hope you feel seen, and I hope you feel you have a space. If not, let me know and I will try harder to make sure you know you are seen.

Buen Camino!

The cathedral is in the middle, the oldest building in Cadiz
The boardwalk is filled with old people, like us
I just thought this was cool… ancient walls and the community youth doing something ancient (playing)
View from bell tower. Not a straight street in this city (nation, near as I can tell)
people watching. Zoom in and you may see 3-4 people you know!
From our balcony. Good night, everyone.


One response to “10/7 Cadiz (still)”

  1. I believe it is the “Moops” you are referring to, not the Moors. 🤦🏼‍♀️
    -George Costanza (Ask Camille, she’ll get it) 😂