10/13 Madrid

Ready for some more ramblings?? I was thinking about “I don’t know if I’ve been changed for the better, but I have been changed for good” from Wicked (2003) but I am not sure how much “I’ve been changed”. There are some things I believe will stick with me/us but they do say the Camino doesn’t really come home to you until later… I don’t know, guess we’ll see. I am trying to be open to further reflection.

We left St Jean Pied-de-Port in France on Wednesday, Sept 18th, and walked 283 km (176 miles) to Burgos, Spain. We took a rest day in Logroño, so if my math is correct (“maths” as they say in Europe for some reason) that’s 17.6 miles/day. We got bikes in Burgos and rode the 178 km (111 miles) to Leon over the next 3 days. Due to weather, we hopped a train to Cadiz on the 5th and back up to Santiago De Compostela on the 10th. Yesterday (12th) we took a train back to Madrid and tomorrow (14th) we fly home.

Today we slept in, took a long, hot shower and then went downtown Madrid. One of the things that seems consistent in both the rural and urban areas of Spain is the use of public spaces. People have their homes but they spend a lot of time “out”. Parks have benches just like in the US except here people are sitting on them! Public flower beds have raised walls a perfect height for sitting. Madrid has a large, lovely park just by the Prado museum that has been filled every time I have seen it. Camille and I walked through part of it today before having supper. The streets outside the park have some EXPENSIVE designer stores (the kind where sleek, black SUVs with guards are double parked and waiting). I don’t know much about designer stuff, but the people on the street outside the park looked like they were wearing some expensive stuff. The people in the park, however, made us feel right at home (well, they would of if they cared, everyone in the park – or the street for that matter – just seems to be doing their own thing in their own world). I am consistently impressed with Spain’s use of public space.

One of the disappointments about the practice of medicine as I have experienced it is that it is too busy or interrupted for the luxury of contemplation. The gift of the Camino was really just a lot of time to walk and think. In that sense it seems to me there is nothing about Spain particular to that. If you want a really long walk I would recommend doing it around home. If you want to experience Spain, I would not walk the Camino to do so.

The people we have met along the Camino in general have been very gracious but what was once a pilgrim walk has become a bit too much of something else. Did you see the blurb about the woman who started feeding raccoons 20 years ago but now is afraid to go out of her house because there are too many raccoons? (https://www.nytimes.com/2024/10/10/us/raccoons-washington-home.html?unlocked_article_code=1.R04.nvPe.JkssvCiQIyDL&smid=url-share) 20 years ago 40,000 pilgrims walked the Camino a year. Now? 400,000. I am okay with the numbers except the exponential increase means you need to book rooms 2-3 or more days in advance and if you book rooms in advance, then you better get there. It really takes some of the spontaneity or flexibility out of the day and I think that is a loss. I suppose it is good for the economy of these communities but it is HARD to find a room.

Spain is a lovely country with a long and complicated history. If you have any interest in visiting I would recommend it. It is not an expensive country to visit but don’t plan to eat before 8:30 (unless you are hitting the grocery store – which we did a few times!). If you want a unique experience of sleeping in a big room with 30 new friends, book an albergue. Once was enough for us, we have lived the experience and will share it with any of you so you don’t have to.

Physically I would say the trip was about 100% harder than I expected it to be. The first part of the Camino especially was not easy terrain. The reviews we read (and we read A LOT) talked about a mostly easy path to walk. We walk a fair amount and are in pretty good shape for two old people but it was not a simple walk. It was a hike at best and a slow creep other times with the terrain. The initial stress on the knees and feet led to some temporary inflammation and injury which really made it more difficult. I noted a lot of people all along the path who seemed to be struggling. The bike riding from Burgos to Leon was not difficult for the most part but between Camille’s bike and the weather… not a joy ride either.

Emotionally there really weren’t any surprises for me. Maybe Camille will say something different. I found the “hill of forgiveness” (Alto de Perdon) meaningful but that might be my sinful thoughts regarding the path going up and down? The most meaningful part to me would be the numerous memorials along the path from other pilgrims or the monuments to victims of the Spanish Civil war (including at the top of Alto de Perdon). I found the singing during the Mass at Santiago de Compostela to be rich and the swinging censor (the botafumeiro) to be meaningful but I am presently of the mind that the richness of that experience was the joy of the people and the tradition.

Mentally I really enjoyed the time to think while walking. My laziness missed the computer to explore resources when my thoughts came up but perhaps that was a gift too as I had to do some of the “debate” or dialogue the old fashioned way; ie. in my head. I think the walking is a mental activity I would like to continue. Perhaps leave my phone at home or shut it off and head out. It was really refreshing to NOT have access at all times (and frustrating as well). There is a way to combine walking and prayer as well… perhaps I will explore that (besides, “O God, where is the next town?”)

Spiritually there seems to be a lot more room when the day isn’t occupied with the 1000 things we occupy every day with. Some of those things are necessary but I suspect many are not. I found a Sabbath on the walk to be a necessary and welcome relief. Taking a Sabbath at home I suspect will be as well and taking a little time out of each day to try and do so as well would be helpful. I suppose the trick might be making that space, or building in “the margins” that Camille talks about.

Socially I was impressed by the diversity of cultures, and people, and their reasons for making the Camino. We made a couple connections but didn’t feel any urge to necessarily make others. We were invited to stop and eat a couple times and perhaps that was someone else’s attempt to connect with us? I think I am supposed to feel bad about that, but either because I am from South Dakota, or feel like my social dance card is already full, having another superficial contact didn’t interest me much. I need to remember the small talk and the community building lessons I was reminded of but there is middle ground there somewhere. In a different Camino where accommodations were easier to secure and that would allow the luxury of stopping when the moment called for it… perhaps more conducive to the small talk. I am sure that’s just me making an excuse, but it’s also real.

So what will I take from here? Time will tell. I chuckled many times on our journey thinking to myself “these Camino walkers are a little strange” (except us, every else though). Who packs two outfits and leaves for 6 weeks? I guess we do, but from the time I first mentioned going on this “walk” I have never heard a word of anything but support from Camille who has been sharing my Camino for the last 38 years. In the case of Camille, it is the very best kind of strange. The world needs more like her, but I am grateful for having the one and only and the best part is we continue this journey together, in Spain, at home or wherever. Not all who wander are lost, per Gandalf, and if you wander with the right person/people you might always be at home.

Buen Camino!